Bubble Hem Dress Tutorial

I found this super cute bubble hem dress at Forever 21, and discovered the bubble hem is the greatest way to wear a short skirt without feeling like you are going to be flashing your underthings every time the breeze blows. Using the F21 dress as a template, I made a couple elastic waist skirts with a bubble hem, then decided to tackle the dress. This dress is a great casual summer piece. I can't wait to wear it!

Ok, let's go! Please forgive the pictures, my camera is broken and I had to use my phone camera. Also, I had to add a bust to my dress form, so excuse the teal duct tape!

What you will need: 1 1/2 to 2 yards of stretch fabric, jersey is best; 1" to 2" wide elastic, your preference, for waistband; and 1/4" to 3/8" inch elastic for the hem. You will also need 1/2 yard of a stretch fabric for the skirt lining. I used stretch mesh, which is really light and won't add a lot of weight.

First, measure around the widest part of your bust and add at least 3 inches. You can always take it in if it is too loose. Then, measure from the top of your shoulder down over the tip of your breast to where you want the waist band to sit. I chose to have it sit around the bottom of my rib cage. My bust measurement was 36", and I decided to add 4 inches just in case, making the width 40". My length was 16".

I chose to make a paper pattern so I wouldn't have to do the measuring again, just lay out and cut. Cut a rectangle that is one fourth your bust measurement wide ( for me that would be 10") and your length measurement high (16"). Mark one side center front. On the other side measure down 8"-10" from the top and mark a line about 1/2 long. This will be your arm hole notch. From the top corner of the center front measure 5-6" along the top and mark. Cut a curved line from this mark to about 3 inches down on the center front. This will be your neck hole. This is your top pattern.

Cut 2 top pieces on the fold of your fabric, making sure the stretch of the fabric is going across, not up and down. On one piece cut the full neck hole; this will be your front. On the other piece cut a more shallow hole for the back. Cut a notch on the sides where you marked for the edge of the arm hole.

For the skirt, measure from where you want the top of your waistband to sit to how long you want it to be. Add 1 inch for seam allowances, and an additional 2 1/2" to 3 "inches for the bubble hem. My measurement was 23" total after adding the 3 1/2" inches. Measure around the widest part of your hips and add 10". I wanted my skirt to be fuller than my top, so I measured 48" for the width. Same as the top, cut a rectangle of paper one fourth your width (12") by your length (23"). Again, cut 2 skirt pieces on the fold of your fabric. Here is what your pieces should look like.

Sew your top pieces together at the shoulders. Then sew the sides together underneath the arm hole notch, leaving the neck and arm holes open. Sew the skirt pieces together at the sides.

Next, cut a rectangle of lining fabric 2 1/2" shorter than your skirt, but only as wide as your hip measurement plus 2" (40" for me, 38" + 2") I just cut one big rectangle, then sewed the side seam, forming a tube. Turn inside out. Mark where the other side seam would be, and center front and back with pins.

Turn your skirt inside out. Mark center front and back with pins, then slip the lining tube into the skirt, so the right sides are together. Pin the pieces together at the top at side seams, center front and center back. Then stretch the lining to fit the skirt, and pin. Baste. Then sew with a serger or zig zag stitch.

Next, take your 1/4" or 3/8" elastic. Measure around your thighs 2 inches above where you want your skirt to fall. Cut your elastic this measurement, plus 1/2 inch. With your lining still inside the skirt, sew the elastic to the seam you just made, using a zig zag stitch. If you have an elastic foot use it, otherwise stretch your elastic as you sew. You want the elastic to make it all the way around the skirt.

Turn the skirt right side out and slip the lining inside, so wrong sides are together. Match up the top of the lining with the top of the skirt, pinning at sides, center back and center front. Just like the hem, stretch the lining to fit the skirt and pin.

Now the waistband. You are going to make a casing at the top of the skirt for the elastic. I used 1 1/2" wide elastic. I measured down 2 inches from the top of the skirt and sewed all the way around. If you use bigger or smaller elastic, take the width of the elastic and add 1/2 inch, then measure down this measurement and sew there. Then measure down 1/2" from the top and sew all the way around, leaving a 1" opening to insert the elastic. Measure around the part of your waist you want the waistband to sit, add 1/2 ". Insert the elastic, sew the ends of the elastic together, then finish the opening.

Try on the top, trimming the neck hole if you want it bigger, and taking in the side seams a little if you need to. Pull the skirt on and tuck the top into it. If you want it to sit a little higher trim the bottom of the top piece.

Turn the arm and neck hole openings under 1/4", then turn again another 1/4" so you have a double roll, then topstitch.

Turn the skirt inside out, and slip the top inside the skirt so right sides are together. Pin the bottom of the top piece to the top of the skirt, stretching the top to fit the skirt. Stitch along the top casing stitching. Finish with a zig zag or serger.

You are done!

On the left is how the finished hem looks like on the inside.

If you have any questions, feel free to comment!